Originally written and published: February 5th, 2014
The idea of permanently silky, straight hair that glides effortlessly through a comb can still be tempting. But chemical relaxers are worth a closer look. Chris Rock’s 2009 film Good Hair famously highlighted the power of sodium hydroxide, an active ingredient in some traditional relaxers, with a dramatic demonstration of its ability to break down materials. More than a decade later, hair care has evolved, with options ranging from relaxers and keratin treatments to silk presses and heat styling. If you love the look of straight hair, the key is understanding how your chosen treatment works, its potential effects on your hair and scalp, and how to keep your strands healthy afterward.
THE GOOD
Curly hair, especially coarse, kinky, or tightly textured hair, can require extra time and care to manage, and some people simply prefer the look and feel of straighter hair. Today, there are more options for temporarily smoothing or chemically straightening curls, but each comes with different effects, maintenance requirements, and potential risks.
Relaxers: Relaxers use chemicals to permanently alter the hair’s natural curl pattern. Traditional lye relaxers use sodium hydroxide, while no-lye systems typically use calcium hydroxide and a separate activating ingredient. Neither option is necessarily “gentler” and both can cause dryness, breakage, scalp irritation, or chemical burns if misused. Relaxers can straighten even very tight curl patterns, but new growth will retain your natural texture and require touch-ups.
Thermal Reconditioning: Also known as Japanese hair straightening, this permanent straightening method chemically alters the bonds in the hair before it is heat-styled and neutralized. It generally produces very straight, smooth results until new growth appears. Because the process combines chemicals and high heat, it can be stressful for the hair and is best performed by an experienced professional, particularly on color-treated, highlighted, or previously chemically processed hair.
Keratin and Smoothing Treatments: Keratin treatments and other professional smoothing services are designed to reduce frizz, increase shine, make hair easier to blow-dry, and improve manageability rather than permanently straighten every curl. Results are temporary and vary by formula and hair type, and some formulations may contain or release formaldehyde when heated. Always ask your stylist what product is being used, check the ingredient information, and make sure the salon has appropriate ventilation. Depending on the treatment, you may still be able to wear your hair curly or add waves and bounce with heat styling.
THE BAD
Straight hair comes with a price. Hair that has been chemically treated requires a lot of TLC in order to make it look truly soft and healthy. This is especially true for hair that has double the chemicals with a straightening treatment and hair dye. If the hair isn’t properly replenished after being abused with chemicals, extreme dryness and damage to the hair’s elasticity and strength will show. It will also be more prone to breakage.
Chemical treatments can be very expensive and relaxers and thermal reconditioning need to be touched up every six to eight weeks. If you don’t touch up, there can be an awkward period where the ends of your hair are straight and your roots are curly. To avoid this, a lot of women are forced to chop off their hair and start over with their curls.
THE UGLY
As Chris Rock and his chemical genius so poignantly illustrated, relaxers can be down right dangerous. Sodium hydroxide is the same chemical used to unclog sinks – do we really want that in our bodies? By now, most people have accepted that our skin (including our scalp) absorbs what we put on it and that means the toxic chemicals used in relaxers can have serious consequences on our health. Beyond the grander chemical absorption issues, misuse of relaxers can also result in chemical burns, hair loss and severe irritation, including dermatitis.
Thermal reconditioning uses a chemical called ammonium thioglycolate, which although safer than the lye and no lye relaxers–poses the risk of allergic reactions.
Keratin treatments and Brazilian blowouts have received a lot of media attention recently due to the finding that some contain formaldehyde, which has been linked to cancer. Health Canada received complaints of burning eyes, nose and throat, breathing difficulties and hair loss associated with use of these treatments.
Overall, the choice to use chemicals or to go natural is a personal one. Personally, I’ve decided that natural curls are just too fun and unique for me to want to permanently change them. If I’m in the mood for Kate Moss hair, I’ll dust off my flat iron!
Written By: Joy Gurr
Joy has been a proud curly girl all her life, that includes the awkward stages of her youth when she would brush her curls (gasp!) resulting in a huge curly puff that could rival any 80’s ‘do. Since then, Joy has tried and tested many, many hair products, styles and cuts to now be a self professed curl connoisseur. Joy is a 9 to 5 working girl living in Ottawa, Canada.
